Comments on: Bow rollers

By: matti

matti — Sat, 21 Jun 2008 05:59:32 +0000

Hi Stuart and Liko,
The layer under the deck was put there before decking and was faired with a plane/belt sander. It made it easier to get a fair deck here. But mainly it was put there since we made the bulkhead at the anchor box as a permanent station, so it wasn’t easy to glass the underside of the deck here. It made it easier to install cleats etc, but it is a bit unnecessary, since it is a slightly heavier than using ordinary backing plates.
/m

By: liko self

liko self — Fri, 20 Jun 2008 21:09:53 +0000

Hi Matti,

Doubling the deck thickness at the bow is a good idea. I’ll keep it in mind. Easy to do. Not much extra weight added. Just fair the lip and glass over it. Deck will be glassed anyway.

Yes, to small manual windlass for emergency pullout strength. But normally used gloves and hands. Simpson Lawrence anchorman with drum if I can find one. Apparently Lewmar bought SL and stopped manufacturing some of the SL line. Double bow rollers with chain pawls (the McNaughton design) which would have to be fabricated by the yard. 30-40 pound plow type anchors and a spare…fisherman or equivalent if I can find one. Two anchors, two cleats, two hawse holes.

double the deck at the bow…good idea.

By: Stuart Crawford

Stuart Crawford — Thu, 19 Jun 2008 23:28:33 +0000

How did you fix the layer of plywood under your fordeck? Did you install it befor or after the deck? Would you do it the same way again, or has the experience shown you an easier way?

By: Matti

Matti — Thu, 19 Jun 2008 21:19:28 +0000

Hi Liko.
Are you going to use a windlass? At 26 ft I suppose you could do without, but it might be convenient as well. Of course a chain pawl in a roller, two gloves to grab the chain and a cleat that can take the chain in the middle of the fore deck might go fine as well.

What size anchor are you going to use? The main goal of using two is that you will get less swing radious in a crowded or small anchorage.

We have two bronze cleats on the foredeck and the windlass have a cleat incorporated as well. I don’t like puting two lines on the same cleat if it can be avoided, so we have two at the back and two in the middle of the boat as well for springs.

The whole forward foredeck area is reinforced with an extra layer of plywood under it, so it is about two inches thick. Instead of using several backing plates…

Post some more pictures soon!

By: liko self

liko self — Thu, 19 Jun 2008 19:54:04 +0000

Thanks for the background. You’re setup nicely with backup anchors, for mutiple bottom types and kedging off. I’m curious because I’m planing the foredeck arrangment on my Penny 26 even though it has not been decked yet (easier to enter/exit and complete the interior without a deck). Which is good because with no deck the under area can be reinforced easily for a sampson post, oversize cleat(s), or whatever.

By: Matti

Matti — Wed, 18 Jun 2008 20:28:20 +0000

Hi,
Well no. We have a manual windlass with chain pawls on the port side, where we use an all chain rode. On starboard we use chain + nylon and don’t use a pawl. We use two 45 lb CQR-anchors + a fisherman for seaweed and a small hook aft for kedging and such.
/m

By: liko self

liko self — Wed, 18 Jun 2008 20:03:21 +0000

Hi Matti,

Did you consider chain pawls for the bow rollers?