Bow rollers
Think that you anchored at a place where the swell builds up and you need to leave. You let go the snubber line that holds the anchor, motor up to the anchor as you take in the slack on the windlass. Then you need to break the anchor loose, so instead of the crank you need to use the lever. Now, let’s say the anchor is stuck around some old railroad track or something else that doesn’t move. (A railroad track happened to us once in Skagen.) The bow moves in the swell. How much strain will be put on the bow roller?
I have no idea, but it should be a lot. So, to be able to sleap without bad dreams on board, we decided to try to make the bow rollers as strong as the anchor chain.
This is what it looks like at start. (Guess how many people came up with the same joke: Are you destroying the boat?)
Holes in the Bulwark for bow rollers platform.
Bow rollers hardware.The platform is made of laminated mahogany
Posted: June 16th, 2008 under Building, Photos.
Comments: 7
Comments
Comment from liko self
Time: June 18, 2008, 10:03 pm
Hi Matti,
Did you consider chain pawls for the bow rollers?
Comment from Matti
Time: June 18, 2008, 10:28 pm
Hi,
Well no. We have a manual windlass with chain pawls on the port side, where we use an all chain rode. On starboard we use chain + nylon and don’t use a pawl. We use two 45 lb CQR-anchors + a fisherman for seaweed and a small hook aft for kedging and such.
/m
Comment from liko self
Time: June 19, 2008, 9:54 pm
Thanks for the background. You’re setup nicely with backup anchors, for mutiple bottom types and kedging off. I’m curious because I’m planing the foredeck arrangment on my Penny 26 even though it has not been decked yet (easier to enter/exit and complete the interior without a deck). Which is good because with no deck the under area can be reinforced easily for a sampson post, oversize cleat(s), or whatever.
Comment from Matti
Time: June 19, 2008, 11:19 pm
Hi Liko.
Are you going to use a windlass? At 26 ft I suppose you could do without, but it might be convenient as well. Of course a chain pawl in a roller, two gloves to grab the chain and a cleat that can take the chain in the middle of the fore deck might go fine as well.
What size anchor are you going to use? The main goal of using two is that you will get less swing radious in a crowded or small anchorage.
We have two bronze cleats on the foredeck and the windlass have a cleat incorporated as well. I don’t like puting two lines on the same cleat if it can be avoided, so we have two at the back and two in the middle of the boat as well for springs.
The whole forward foredeck area is reinforced with an extra layer of plywood under it, so it is about two inches thick. Instead of using several backing plates…
Post some more pictures soon!
/m
Comment from Stuart Crawford
Time: June 20, 2008, 1:28 am
How did you fix the layer of plywood under your fordeck? Did you install it befor or after the deck? Would you do it the same way again, or has the experience shown you an easier way?
Comment from liko self
Time: June 20, 2008, 11:09 pm
Hi Matti,
Doubling the deck thickness at the bow is a good idea. I’ll keep it in mind. Easy to do. Not much extra weight added. Just fair the lip and glass over it. Deck will be glassed anyway.
Yes, to small manual windlass for emergency pullout strength. But normally used gloves and hands. Simpson Lawrence anchorman with drum if I can find one. Apparently Lewmar bought SL and stopped manufacturing some of the SL line. Double bow rollers with chain pawls (the McNaughton design) which would have to be fabricated by the yard. 30-40 pound plow type anchors and a spare…fisherman or equivalent if I can find one. Two anchors, two cleats, two hawse holes.
double the deck at the bow…good idea.
Comment from matti
Time: June 21, 2008, 7:59 am
Hi Stuart and Liko,
The layer under the deck was put there before decking and was faired with a plane/belt sander. It made it easier to get a fair deck here. But mainly it was put there since we made the bulkhead at the anchor box as a permanent station, so it wasn’t easy to glass the underside of the deck here. It made it easier to install cleats etc, but it is a bit unnecessary, since it is a slightly heavier than using ordinary backing plates.
/m
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